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Part I · Healthy skin

08

Building Your Real Routine

Practical routines for acne-prone, aging, sensitive, pregnant, nursing, and chaotic-day skin.

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This page includes the opening section of the chapter. The complete chapter is available in the book.

Everything in Part One has been building to this chapter.

You know your skin type. You know your conditions. You know which ingredients matter and which ones are marketing. You know that sleep and stress and hormones are doing as much work as anything in a bottle. Now we put it together into a routine you can actually follow.

I want to emphasize "actually follow." The best routine in the world is the one that fits your real life, not the aspirational one you'll abandon by week three. If you have small kids and you barely get three minutes in the morning before someone needs cereal poured, your routine has to fit those three minutes. If you travel constantly, your routine has to survive a hotel bathroom and a six a.m. flight. If you have ADHD or executive function struggles, your routine needs to be simple enough that you can do it on bad days.

This chapter gives you a few different routine templates, plus the framework to adjust them as your skin and life change.

The Baseline Routine

This is what almost everyone should be doing, regardless of age or specific concerns. If you're starting from nothing, start here.

Morning:

  1. Gentle cleanser (or just water if your skin runs dry or sensitive)
  2. Vitamin C serum (skip if your skin is reactive to it)
  3. Moisturizer
  4. Sunscreen, SPF 30 to 50

Evening:

  1. Cleanser (double cleanse if you wore heavy makeup or sunscreen)
  2. Retinoid (start two to three nights a week, build up to nightly as tolerated)
  3. Moisturizer

That's four products in the morning and three at night. Most of them are inexpensive. The whole routine takes about five minutes total once you're in the habit.

If you have nothing else to spend money on right now, here are the five products to prioritize, in order of importance:

  1. A broad-spectrum SPF 30 to 50 sunscreen you'll actually wear daily.
  2. A gentle cleanser appropriate for your skin type.
  3. A retinoid. Start with adapalene gel (Differin) if you're new to retinoids. About $15 over the counter.
  4. A basic moisturizer with ceramides.
  5. A vitamin C serum.

That's it. With those five products you have a complete, effective routine. You can spend more, but you don't need to.

Routine for Acne-Prone Skin

If acne is your main issue, the routine shifts.

Morning:

  1. Gentle cleanser, or a salicylic acid cleanser two or three mornings a week
  2. Niacinamide serum (5 to 10 percent)
  3. Lightweight moisturizer
  4. Sunscreen

Evening:

  1. Cleanser (consider salicylic acid every other night)
  2. Adapalene gel or prescription retinoid (start two to three nights a week, build up)
  3. Moisturizer

Things to know if you're treating acne:

Benzoyl peroxide is useful as a spot treatment or a short-contact wash (apply, leave on for thirty seconds to a minute, rinse off). It bleaches towels and clothing. Don't use it in a leave-on form alongside a retinoid in the same routine. They cancel each other out and irritate the skin in the bargain.

If you're using both salicylic acid and a retinoid, alternate them rather than stacking them. Salicylic acid in the morning, retinoid at night. Or salicylic acid one night, retinoid another.

Hormonal acne (the cyclical jawline and chin breakouts) often won't fully clear with topicals alone. If you've been consistent for three months without meaningful improvement, talk to a provider about spironolactone or other hormonal options.

Stop. Picking. I know.

Routine for Aging or Anti-Aging Concerns

If your main concern is fine lines, loss of firmness, dullness, and overall aging, the routine emphasizes collagen support and consistent retinoid use.

Morning:

  1. Gentle cleanser
  2. Vitamin C serum
  3. Peptide serum (optional, for additional collagen support)
  4. Moisturizer
  5. Sunscreen

Evening:

  1. Cleanser
  2. Retinoid (work up to nightly)
  3. Peptide or hydrating serum
  4. Moisturizer